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World-famous for its Renaissance fresco cycle depicting scenes from the Old Testament (from the Original Sin to the Life of St Peter) and a must-see for any serious art fan, the Cappella Brancacci was happily preserved from the 1771 fire that destroyed almost all the remainder of the 13th-century church (later reconstructed in its present Neo-Gothic style). The frescoes were worked on by Masolino and his then-pupil Masaccio, then completed by Filippino Lippi after the death of the latter from the plague. But it is the frescoes by Masaccio that are the most celebrated, especially those of the Expulsion from Paradise (first panel left) and the episodes of The Tribute Money (top left). The work of Masolino can be seen in the lower tier to the right of the altar, while Filippino Lippi is responsible for most of the lower zone of the right wall.
Galleria dell’Accademia is Florence’s second-most-visited museum. Located just off Piazza San Marco and reached by heading south from the piazza (square) along Via Ricasoli, and so to the museum, the Galleria itself is housed in Florence’s Academy of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture, originally established in the 16th century. The art collection on display here was acquired from the 18th century on, primarily as a means of tutoring its students. And while the gallery is home to an impressive range of paintings (Benozzo Gozzoli, Uccello, Botticelli, Filippino Lippi, Fra Bartolomeo, Perugino and others), it is best-known for its seven marble sculptures by Michelangelo.
It was the wife of Cosimo I, Elenora di Toledo, who insisted the hilly area behind the Palazzo Pitti be turned into gardens. She commissioned Tribolo to transform it into what is now one of the most important remaining examples of Italian landscaping, with fountains, grottoes and some amazing sculptures. It’s an opportunity to sit, relax and take in the great views over town from the summit. Don’t miss the Isolotto, the small island in the center of the water garden, Buontalenti’s grotto, the Kaffeehaus in its 18th-century Rococo pavilion, or the vast amphitheater where opera is said to have been born. Recently reopened after five years of restorative work, the adjoining Forte di Belvedere – considered “Florence’s balcony” for its far-reaching views – is also well worth a peek. The commission was given to Buontalenti at the end of the 16th century by Ferdinando I who wanted a Medici stronghold in case of uprisings in the city. Interestingly, it encapsulates an earlier Ammannati palace, which is itself said to have been built on the spot of a secret well guarding Medici treasures. Also home to the Belvedere dell’Arte exhibition, the Forte is a great place to visit in summer when live music concerts are held and films are shown in an atmospheric open-air theater.
From outside the church, a staircase leads you back onto Viale G. Galilei and a short descent to Piazzale Michelangelo, the city’s best-known viewpoint and easily-recognizable by the bronze replica of David, the souvenir sellers and, of course, the view. Built to the plans of Giuseppe Poggi in 1869, it offers a splendid panorama of the city best enjoyed in the early evening when the incessant tour buses decline a bit. From here, you can rejoin the city by following the steps down to Piazza G. Poggi and taking a left along Via di San Niccolò to arrive back at the Ponte Vecchio.
