South of France, east of the País Vasco and at the historical center of Castilian Spain sits Navarre, among the smallest of the country’s autonomous communities but as dynamic in people, politics and heritage as they come. Basque people settled the region long before a succession of Roman, Gothic, Moorish and Frankish invaders gave way to the Spanish Catholics. As a result, a strong sense of Basque culture and the nationalism that comes with it are still apparent in the north and western parts of Navarre and in the capital of Pamplona. In these areas, names come in both Castillian and Euskara (the Basque language) and loyalties may lie not with Madrid but with the País Vasco. During the Civil War the Navarrese government sided with Franco’s nationalists, a move that enraged its Basque contingent. Nonetheless, it was an astute decision that would ultimately spare many lives and win back favor under the Franco dictatorship that it had lost because of its support for Carlism in the 19th century.
At any rate, the Navarre region is characterized by its impressive blend of scenery: rocky cliffs, snow-capped mountains, soft bubbling streams, misty waterfalls and dense forests. The Pyrenees mountains and the French border snuggle nearby on the north end and Zaragoza is a short drive southeast. This is also a wonderful region for sampling local wines and discovering great crafts.
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