Parque Natural de Monfragüe

This ambitious sanctuary lays claim to the world’s sole surviving original Mediterranean forest and a rare dehesa, a precious native grassland shaded by stands of holm and cork oak, which has become increasingly uncommon in Spain as expanding agricultural practices exact their changes on the landscape. Though noteworthy attractions in and of themselves, their ecological value is compounded by the unique ensemble of vertebrate species they harbor, especially the birds. A hike up to the castle Monfragüe, or to the viewpoint at La Tejadilla, affords the opportunity to witness glimpses, however fleeting, of the greatest attractions in this park – the black vulture and imperial eagle – both endangered, and both more prevalent here than anywhere else in the world. In their nests atop holm and cork oak trees they are accompanied by the chipper bantering of colorful azure-winged magpies, bee-eaters, and black-winged kites.

With patience, there is more, much more to be seen. The Romans knew the area as Mons Fragorum, which means rough mountain. With the construction of the Ermita de Monfragüe (castle and hermitage of Monfragüe) under the Arabs, the park acquired its modern name. The structure, situated on top of the Sierra de las Corchuelas, overlooks the western expanse of the park and an ancient trade route across the River Tajo (Tagus).

The Tajo and Tjetar rivers are a frequent sight from the trails, meandering through valleys and past steep, rocky crags where, in places, the embattled black stork can be found nesting alongside an assortment of vultures, eagles and falcons. The reservoirs and tributaries sustain otters, the amphibious newts and salamanders, various migratory bird populations, red deer and boar (which hunters are permitted to shoot in certain seasons), mongoose, the Moorish gecko and snakes. Arare sight is the Iberian lynx, slowly suffering its decline as the rabbit populations grow scarce and human intervention more acute. To counter the devastation wrought on this enclave by dams, the ensuing loss of natural vegetation and the influx of non-native species such as the eucalyptus tree, park officials are engaged in the long process of restoring the two natural habitats of the park.

Plasencia

Plasencia on a Tuesday afternoon... the medieval market first initiated during the 12th century is well underway. The modest flow of shoppers and gawkers leads past Spaniards standing at the ready to make a sale, hawking products wearable or edible, used and new. “Some good, some bad,” a Swedish friend says. Plasencia is as monumental a city as you will find in northern Extremadura. Near the convergence of the three northern valleys, it is perfectly situated for outdoor excursions and an easy day-trip from Cáceres. King Alfonso VIII officially founded the city in 1186, though the area had been occupied in prehistoric times. Its name, bestowed by the King, means “pleasant for God and men.” The town’s defensive walls were under construction when the Moors arrived in 1186, and had they been completed, the city might have been spared its Moorish occupation. When King Alfonso VIII returned the city to the Christians a year later, he made sure that the walls were finished promptly. In many places they have been faithfully restored and two of the original gates still remain.

Sightseeing

When you reach the town, the aqueduct is immediately impressive. It was built in the mid-16th century to restore the water flow from the earlier cañería de los moros aqueduct (Moorish pipes). Inside the walls the town hall, or Palacia Municipal, built during the grey area as Gothic styling gave way to Renaissance, highlights the Plaza Mayor. For most, the square is recognized by its tower and bell, El Abuelo Mayorga, which rings every hour on the hour, alerting the townsfolk to wake up, eat, and sleep – as if these acts weren’t already natural. But this is one of the greatest charms of Spain, that its historical sentimentalities are less dimmed by passing time than in many other countries.

Time should be spent visiting the two adjoining cathedrals of Plasencia that stand, despite their proximity, in stark contrast to one another. The Catedral Vieja (old cathedral) was first constructed in the 13th century and is modest in its Renaissance styling. Of note is the incomplete scene of the Annunciation of the Virgin inside and the Capilla de San Pablo (Saint Paul’s Chapel) fronting the cloister around a Gothic fountain. The 16th-century Catedral Nueva next to it is more impressive architecturally, with tall, plateresque façades and a tower that once belonged to the old cathedral. The grand high altar piece inside dates to the 17th century and holds a number of interesting paintings and sculptures, as well as the 13th-century wooden image of the Virgin of El Sagrario. Next to it is the sepulchre of Pedro Ponce de León, Benedictine monk and reliable advisor to Felipe II who is credited with having developed the first method of teaching deaf-mutes. The Cathedral Museum displays a collection of 15th- to 17th-century religious relics, as well as sculpture and paintings by Spanish and Flemish artists. Also in the collection are some archaeological remains discovered in the valleys, where you should head next.