Moon Hill
Moon Hill, one of Yangshuo's principal outdoor attractions, is a huge limestone peak with a moon-shaped hole eroded through its middle. It makes for a short, steep and rewarding ascent, approximately 90 min up and down. You can take a bus or taxi from Yangshuo, but it’s only half an hour by bicycle along the main road. On arrival you’ll have to buy a ticket and, as on so many walks in China, you may be accompanied by a farmer/vendor trying to sell you drinks, trinkets or postcards. Unless you want them to lead you all the way to the top (which they will happily and helpfully do, providing you buy something), make it very clear that you don’t want anything, or buy a drink at the bottom and save them the effort. Or if you want to see a bit more of rural life after your climb, you could accompany one of them to their home for a meal. The food is generally excellent and spending time at a local farm gives real insight into the lives of the people. Mama Moon is a friendly farmer guide found at the base of the hill who can arrange this for you – she is something of a local celebrity and has appeared on television and in the newspapers! If you don’t want to trek off to a village there’s also a café at the bottom of the hill, which is a good spot to enjoy a well-earned beer after the climb.
The trail to the top is easy to follow, but divides quite soon after you start to ascend – both trails head to the top but the one on the right is shorter. Half an hour to an hour later, you’ll emerge at the bottom of the moon from where there are good views. But, for the full panorama, follow the trail through the moon and look for a small path leading off to the left. This track can be muddy and slippery and there are some steep drops, so don’t attempt it if you don’t have the energy or are worried by heights. That said, if you continue, 15 minutes later you’ll find yourself in a Chinese poem, with the river often glimmering in the sunlight, meandering its way through the patchwork of paddies, all of it dwarfed by the limestone towers stretching as far as the eye can see in every direction. This little excursion ties in well with a swim or a snack at the Mountain Retreat, a mile or so back toward Yangshuo, on a small track signposted from a bridge over the river.
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