The Gardens

Canglang Pavilion

This quiet retreat at the southern end of Renmin Lu offers a real escape from the tourist-filled gardens of the north. Built by the Song poet, Su Sunqin, it is the oldest remaining garden in Suzhou and was repaired in both the Ming and Qing dynasties. The garden contains a number of man-made stone hillocks covered with bamboo and ancient trees. The centerpiece is the Canglang Pavilion, inscribed with the famous Chinese couplet. “the refreshing breeze and the bright moon are priceless. The near water and distant hills strike a sentimental note.” And they do, although you can’t visit at night, so you could exchange “bright moon” for hot sun!

Master of the Nets Garden

Situated on a small lane off Shiquan Jie just west of the Suzhou Hotel, this small but perfectly formed garden is a must-see. Dating back to the 12th century, it was constructed by a retired official who decided he wanted to try his hand at fishing. It was later named “Master of the Nets” during the Qing Dynasty by Emperor Qianlong who had it restored after many centuries of neglect. The garden’s focal point is a picturesque lily pond, flanked by roofed walkways, pavilions, courtyards, rockeries, flowers and trees. Everywhere you walk there are glimpses of another part of the garden, conveying the impression that it is much larger than it really is. From mid-March to mid-November, the garden also hosts an evening show, featuring traditional Chinese music performances.

Couples Garden

Ou Yuan, as the garden is locally known, is on the eastern edge of town and is surrounded on three sides by canals and the moat. It offers a collection of beautiful miniature gardens and limestone rockeries set around a central house. There’s a pleasant teahouse and you can also take short canal trips from here, which depart from the back of the garden.

Lion Grove Garden

In the northeast part of town not far from the Humble Administrators Garden, Lion Grove is a man-made maze of caves, rockeries and pathways that dates back to the 13th century. It was built by a Buddhist monk to honor the memory of his late master. The rocks are said to have come from the nearby Lake Tai and supposedly resemble lions sleeping, fighting and playing, hence the garden’s name, although you may need to stretch your imagination to envisage this!

The Humble Administrator’s Garden

One of the most famous in China and, for some, the best, the Humble Administrator’s Garden gained UNESCOWorld Heritage status in 1997. Given that this is the biggest garden in Suzhou, its title seems a little ironic. It stems from a Tang poem which suggested that garden conservation was the work of a humble man. The garden was built by a retired imperial official under the inspiration of this poem, in the belief that withdrawal and retreat were admirable attributes. However, although it’s the largest and most famous, I prefer the more intimate Master of the Nets Garden.

Lingering Garden

The Lingering Garden sits in the far northwest of town and was designed by a retired Ming dynasty minister. Expanded and renovated in the Qing dynasty, it offers a number of picture-perfect gardens set around pavilions and lily ponds. North of the garden’s Nanmu Hall you’ll find the 21-foot-tall Guanyun Peak – a contorted and potholed rock tower brought here from Lake Tai. Despite its location, the Lingering Garden has become one of the most popular sights in town and can get very busy in the summer.

Tiger Hill

Su Dongpo reputedly said “it is a lifelong pity if you have visited Suzhou without an appearance in Tiger Hill” and, while I managed to avoid it the first few times I came to Suzhou and wasn’t aware of any lifelong pity, it is a nice place to head for on a bike trip. Located in the northwestern outskirts of the city, Tiger Hill is the resting place of the supposed founder of Suzhou, Emperor He Lu. Legend has it that a white tiger appeared at the top of the hill just days after he was entombed. Inside the park you’ll find numerous temples, pavilions and ponds and the 10th-century, 98-foot-tall Yunyan (or leaning) Pagoda, China’s version of Pisa, which currently stands at an angle of 15 degrees!