Fort-de-France to Diamant, Around the Peninsula

The peninsula that forms the southern curve of the Bay of Fort-de-France is Martinique’s most popular tourist area. Beaches here are gorgeous strips of shaded sand that meet the gentle surf of the warm Caribbean. The northern shore is directly across the bay from the capital. Ferries provide convenient transportation for visitors who want to avoid city traffic.

Lamentin

From Fort-de-France, take Boulevard Général-de- Gaulle south to the national highway, N1, and follow the signs to N5 and the airport at Lamentin. The city of Lamentin is the second largest on Martinique, but most tourists pass through without stopping. Only the rum factory, La Favorite, is of much interest in this industrial area.

Ducos

Shortly after Lamentin, still on N5, you will come to the town of Ducos, where you can see another church, Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Nativité. It was designed by Henri Picq, the architect of the grand cathedral and library in Fort-de-France. The nearby Château Aubéry (take N6 west, north of town) was designed by well-known Italian architects Volpi and Balesco for a wealthy plantation owner.

Trois-Ilets

Watch for the D7 exit off N5 shortly after Ducos. This will take you to Trois-Ilets () and the stunning beaches along the southwest peninsula.

Surprisingly, the village has a rural quality that contrasts delightfully with its reputation as a tourist haven. A small market area abuts the shady square that serves as a centerpiece for an attractive town hall, school and church.

The district of Trois-Ilets was originally known as Cul-de-Sac-à-Vaches – dead end or barricade for cows – when it was settled in the late 1600s. The little island across the way was called l’Ilet-à-Vaches – cow island – and is now known as Gros-Ilet.

The Eglise Notre-Dame-de-la-Délivrance – Our Lady of Deliverance – sits on the square. It was built in 1724 and was the site of the marriage of Empress Josephine’s parents and the baptism of the future empress herself on July 27, 1763. Inside the plain white building you can see the baptismal font and a reproduction of a painting, The Assumption by Murillo, that was given to the church by Josephine’s grandson, Louis.

While you’re in the area, take the time to see the pottery village and sugarcane museum. The Maison de la Canne (cane house) is at Pointe Vatable, less than a mile east of town on D7, the road to Rivière-Salée. This old rum factory has been well restored and displays interesting memorabilia with signs in both French and English. By the time you leave, you will understand the significant influence sugar and rum have had on everything, including the island’s art, music and literature.

Le Village de la Poterie, pottery village, is on a red dirt road off D7 about a half-mile past the sugar museum. This factory and workshop has been in business since the 18th century and is responsible for the redclay bricks used on many of the homes and buildings in Trois-Ilets. In addition, the artisans make handsome decorative pieces from the red clay and offer them for sale at good prices in the village store. Visitors are welcome in the workrooms and store.

Domaine de la Pagerie

West of Trois-Ilets, look for signs on D7 indicating a turn inland (away from the golf course) that leads to Domaine de la Pagerie. The future Empress of France was born here in June 1763 and given the name Marie-Josèphe Rose Tascher de la Pagerie. She married Napoleon Bonaparte in 1796 and became Empress Josephine.

Today, you can visit the small stone house that was once the kitchen for the main residence and now holds a variety of Josephine’s possessions, including furniture, pictures and letters from Napoleon. Ruins of the main house and sugar mill are still on the grounds of the estate that was called Petite Guinée (Little Guinea) during Josephine’s lifetime.

Botanical Garden

Le Parc Naturel des Floralies, a small botanical garden, sits midway up the road that leads to Domaine de la Pagerie. The center was built in 1979 to host an international flower show at a cost of 2.5 million francs. On the grounds you’ll find more than 100 types of labeled flowers and trees laid out in beautiful gardens, a little lake, an aquarium, a delightful open-air theater and a small aviary housing six species of indigenous birds.

Pointe du Bout

A finger of land west of Trois-Ilets juts out into the bay and points directly at Fort-de-France. This area is the indisputable tourist capital of Martinique. Pointe du Bout and the nearby beaches are the center for large resorts, gourmet restaurants and high-fashion boutiques. Yachts flank the marina and ferries deliver passengers who come to try their luck in the casino or enjoy quality entertainment at the nightclubs.

If you’re driving, reach the tourist area by taking D38 off D7. Traffic can get heavy at the ‘Y’ intersection south of the marina, so you may want to park prior to that point and walk the rest of the way.

Le Diamant

The drive from Trois-Islets to Grande Anse on D7 is rated one of the most picturesque on the island. South of Grande Anse, the road splits and you have the choice of continuing on D7 or hugging the coast on D37. Both are lovely routes, and both take you to Le Diamant (). If you choose to follow the coastal road, you will have magnificent views of Diamond Rock after you pass Petite Anse and round the point below Morne Larcher.

The town of Diamant is quite charming, but the beach and the giant multifaceted rock that lies offshore attract most of the attention. Rocher du Diamant (), Diamond Rock, is a 600-foot hunk of limestone about three miles out from the coast. It’s an interesting sight, but its bizarre history makes it especially intriguing.