Sightseeing in Kathmandu

Kathmandu, at first, may appear to be a somewhat disjointed sightseeing experience, with scores of nameless streets and with directions and addresses frequently referenced by chowks (roundabouts or multi-street intersections), but really, when you think about it, Kathmandu unfolds in two parts – Patan, the old city on the other side of the river Basmati, and Kathmandu, the larger, more populous, more happening city. And in Kathmandu, there are only a handful of areas that hold visitor interest, specifically Durbar Square, Thamel Chowk, Nasal Chowk, Freak Street, the Royal Palace area, Pashupatinath and Bodhnath. And here they are:

Patan

Patan actually began life as an entirely separate city on the south bank of the Bagmati, the river that flows between Kathmandu and Patan. Built largely from wood, Patan has historically been a favorite of the local monkey population. Still, it is worth traipsing through, if only to breathe in an historic "city". Centered around its ancient Durbar Square, it is teeming with shrines and temples of Hindu deities, together with statues, monuments and early-day palaces. There is also a worthwhile museum here, Patan Museum, devoted to artistic exhibits, as well as stalls and shops selling Buddha masks and statuettes and assorted jewelry and handicrafts.

Kathmandu Durbar Square

In Kathmandu, too, there is an historic Durbar Square, situated more or less in the heart of the city and filled, not unlike its namesake in Patan, with temples dedicated to Hindu gods and goddesses. Actually, Durbar Square is now a hugely popular UNESCO World Heritage Site, at the center of which stands its premier attraction, Kasthamandap, a wooden shrine that is a place almost of pilgrimage. In the early morning light it is singularly enchanting, yet at other times it can seem uncomfortably stifling with scores of would-be-guides relentlessly pressing upon unsuspecting visitors their unsolicited services. But still, it is worth the trip.

Thamel

Thamel, right by Thamel Chowk, is Kathmandu's party central. Of all the districts in the city, Thamel is the busiest and craziest, a realtime happening place, bursting with restaurants, cafés, boutiques and shops. In fact, this is the place for hungry bodies, offering up Kathmandu's greatest concentration of eating establishments. For sightseers, up the hill from Thamel – a 25- to 30-minute walk, less by rickshaw – stands Swayambhu, a large, landmark stupa that is among the most sacred Buddhist sites in Nepal. But as with other attractions in Kathmandu, Swayambhu is not devoid of tourist trappings that inevitably accompany tourist draws.

Freak Street

Freak Street, in the commercial section of Kathmandu, was famous during the hippie heyday as the epicenter of western hippiedom. In fact, it was named for the hippies who, at the time, were also known as "freaks". Now markedly different and largely commercial, with a crop of restaurants and hotels, it is a far cry from the late 1960s and much of the 1970s when it was a narrow, crowded street lined with hippie haunts of every description: inexpensive "Mind Your Head" lodges, mango juice bars, hole-in-the-wall shops hawking beads, silver bracelets and Turkish puzzle rings, and cheap Tibetan restaurants serving 25-cent meals. Today, it is a place almost purely of nostalgia and 21st century commercialism, with hardly a vestige of yesteryear.

Royal Palace

The former Royal Palace, which was the principal residence of the Nepalese royal family until 2007 and is now a museum and home to the Nepalese Foreign Ministry, is another worthwhile stop. Here, you can visit the Narayanhiti Palace Museum and tour the royal halls of the main buildings. The palace grounds are just as interesting, landscaped with tall, majestic trees and 20-foot bamboo stalks, and with giant fruit bats hanging limply from them.

Also in the vicinity is the Garden of Dreams, a walled garden (which means, an admission fee is charged), serene and colorful, and within easy walking distance of the Royal Palace.

Pashupatinath

Pashupatinath is situated on the eastern fringes of Kathmandu. It is regarded as the most important Hindu temple in Nepal, dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva. Here, Shiva is incarnated as the 'Lord of Animals' at the temple site. Expect to see monkeys, cremation grounds, sadhus (Hindu holy men), and even a holy cave. And as with many of the other sights in Kathmandu, the best time to visit is in the morning, before the crowds begin to gather.

Bodhnath (Boudha)

Bodhnath is a suburb in the eastern part of Kathmandu where the Tibetan community of Nepal – refugees and exiles – have put down stakes. Here the central and principal attraction is the Great Stupa of Boudha, a landmark stupa that is easily the largest and most sacred site outside of Tibet for Tibetan Buddhists. The stupa is also among the most-visited of the sacred sites on the Indian Subcontinent. Be forewarned, however, that this is not as serene a place as one would expect to find, since its tourist lure has drawn visitors by the score, not to mention all the street hawkers and what-not. It is nevertheless well worth a visit, for it exudes an unmistakably Himalayan charm and there's nothing quite like it for miles around.

© Indian Chief Travel Guides