Casco Antiguo Walking Tour

Casco Antiguo (“old compound”) is the second Panamá City (Nueva Panamá), and was founded in 1673 to replace the city destroyed during Henry Morgan’s 1671 raid. Once the NewWorld’s wealthiest city, it declined after the Spanish began sending their ships around Cape Horn instead of across the isthmus. Casco Antiguo enjoyed a revival during the California gold rush and again during its occupation by the French Canal Company. However, It didn’t begin to spread beyond its ancient walls until the early 20th century and, as Panamá City began to spread eastward, Casco Antiguo lapsed into a forgotten slum neighborhood. Recently recognized as an historical and architectural gem,UNESCO declared it aWorld Heritage Site in 1997, and this once-opulent neighborhood is undergoing a renaissance. Many of its magnificent Spanish Colonial, French, neoclassic and Caribbean-style buildings have been restored or are under restoration. Elegant restaurants, sidewalk cafés and trendy clubs have taken up residence along its cobbled streets and shaded plazas.

If coming from the city center, take Avenue Balboa west and turn left onto Central Avenue. This will bring you into Casco Antiguo. There’s very little parking, so your best bet is to go all the way to the peninsula’s tip and park in front of the French Plaza. Better yet, avoid the difficulty of maneuvering Casco Antiguo’s narrow congested streets and take a taxi.

A good way to begin your tour is with a stroll along Paseo de las Bovedas (“Promenade of theVaults”), also called Esteban Huertas Promenade, at the southern tip of the peninsula. This vast walkway curves above a massive stone defensive sea wall built by the Spanish. The cannons are long gone, replaced by arching bowers of flowering red bougainvillea and gentle sea breezes. There are wonderful views of the modern capital from one side and, from the other, the arching Bridge of the Americas and the islands connected by the causeway.

Just below the wall is the lovely French Plaza, dedicated in 1923 to commemorate the 22,000 workers who died during de Lesseps’ attempt to build a canal. A magnificent towering obelisk crowned with a Gallic cockerel serves as its centerpiece. Twelve marble plaques embedded in the wall relate the French canal history, and the principal characters involved are portrayed in a semicircle of bronze busts. On one side of the plaza, Las Bovedas, the vaults or jails, date from early colonial times. Nine of the vaults were restored in 1982 and now house an elegant French restaurant, also called Las Bovedas, and the National Institute of Culture’s (INAC) art gallery. The imposing building next to the vaults was originally the Palace of Justice. Partially destroyed during the 1989USinvasion, “Operation Just Cause,” it’s since been restored and now houses INAC’s offices. The lovely early 20th-century French-designed building opposite the plaza with flowering bougainvilleas dripping from its balconies is occupied by the French Embassy.

Walk up Avenue A when leaving the Plaza to the corner of Avenue 3, to find the remains of 18th-century Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo (Church and Convent of Saint Domingo). Only the walls of this ruined church still stand, and just inside you’ll find the amazing Arco Chato, a 50-foot-long flat arch that has remained in place for centuries without internal support. The former chapel has been restored to house the Museo de Arte Religioso Colonial (Museum of Religious Colonial Art). Don’t miss this small museum with its exquisite, artfully displayed relics. The charming lady docents will pridefully describe each piece or let you wander about quietly on your own.

Turn north on Avenue 3, and just past the imposing Ministry of Government and Justice Building is the magnificent neoclassical Teatro Nacional (National Theater), first opened in 1908. Tiers of red velvet and gilt seating, a glittering crystal chandelier, and busy rococo décor make it almost decadently opulent. Its most important feature is a breathtaking, magnificent domed ceiling depicting the birth of the Republic and recently restored murals painted by artist Roberto Lewis. There is no admission fee, but you will need to ask the security guard to let you in. If you’d like to attend a performance – the national ballet and national orchestra frequently perform here, check the billboard, or call the ticket office.

Opposite the theater, across from Bolívar Park, Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco de Asis (Church and Convent of Saint Francis of Asisi) complex seethes with history. First built as a monastery in 1678, it was twice destroyed and rebuilt. In 1826, Simón Bolívar, in his attempt to unite all of Latin America, called together representatives of Central America, Colombia, Peru, Venezuela, Argentina, Mexico and Panamá to a meeting in the church’s schoolroom annex to write the Isthmus Protocol. While the initial attempt failed, Bolívar eventually liberated Colombia, Bolivia, Ecuador, Venezuela, and Peru into the unified state of Gran Colombia. In 1890, the church was transformed into a religious school. Panamá’s first congress met here to write the country’s constitution in 1904. Between 1923 and 1924 it was used to train a military regiment, and later became the Foreigner’s Hospital. After a long and careful restoration, the magnificent convent section has reopened, and now houses Panamá’s Ministry of Foreign Relations. It has been renamed Salón Bolívar in honor of the “Great Liberator.”

Cross from the park to Eloy Alfaro Street on the bay and you’ll come to the heavily guarded Presidential Palace, called Palacio de las Garzas (Palace of the Herons) for the great birds that strut its grounds. Built in 1673, its opulent interior reflects an exotic blend of colonial and Spanish- Moorish style. Although Panamá’s President lives on the top floors, visits can be arranged Tuesday through Friday by appointment.

Walk south from the Palace to Plaza de la Independencia. During colonial times, this was the city’s central plaza, and today it’s a hub of activity. Trendy new restaurants and sidewalk cafés border its perimeters and, on weekends, vendors hawk raspados (crushed ice with fruit syrup), soft drinks, cotton candy, hot dogs and salchichas (sausages). This is a good place to take a break for lunch or dinner while watching passersby that might include groups of nuns, backpackers, tourists, neighborhood children and well-heeled ladies at lunch. Construction of the massive Metropolitan Cathedral, which dominates one side of the plaza, began in 1688, but wasn’t completed until 1796 – 108 years later!

Directly opposite the cathedral across the park is the 19th-century neoclassical Hotel Central. Once the city’s most opulent hotel, it had deteriorated into a flophouse. It’s since been resurrected, along with the surrounding neighborhood. Facing the cathedral to your left, you’ll see the Municipal Palace, designed by Italian architect Genaro Ruggieri and built in 1910.

Its lovely neoclassic design carries a strong Italianate influence. The Museum of Panamá History on the top floor, displays mostly historical documents.

Next door to the Museum of Panamá History is the Panama Canal Museum’s newly restored building. It is one of the city’s finest examples of Classic French architecture, built in 1875 as the Grand Hotel by George Lowe, who sold it to the French Canal Company in 1881. It served as company’s headquarters until 1904, when it was transferred to the US, and served the same purpose until 1912, when it was purchased and restored by Panamá’s President Belasario Porras, for government use. Both the building’s interior and exhibits are exceptional and range from the isthmus’ creation to the present day canal, along with ancient documents and artworks. Don’t miss the fine gift shop. There is no fee to visit, but guides will appreciate a tip.

Head back on Avenue Central to Avenue 9 and walk one block west to Plaza Herrera, named for Military leader General Tomas Herrera. There’s an equestrian statue of Herrera in this plaza where bullfights were once held, but nothing more of interest. To see the famous Golden Altar, which was moved to the Church of San José after fire destroyed Panamá la Vieja in 1671, walk upAv Central to Calle 9. The church isn’t all that impressive, but the altar is a masterpiece. If you’re carrying a carrying a camera, don’t be surprised if you’re accosted by giggling schoolchildren on the street outside, begging to have their photos taken.

The Church of La Merced, estimated to have been built in 1592, is three blocks east of the Church of San José, on Av Central and Calle 10.

There are some interesting things to see near Casco Antiguo’s entrance. The narrow street that runs from Central Avenue to Avenue B is called Salsipuedes, which translates as “get out if you can.” Back in the 18th century, or so the story goes, it was notoriously dangerous, but today, it’s only an alley narrowed by flea market stalls selling fruits and vegetables, medicinal plants, plastic housewares and an assortment of usual and unusual junk. The only danger is from pickpockets, so stash that cash and anything else of value before visiting.

A brightly painted oriental arched portal marks the entrance to “Barrio Chino” (Chinese Neighborhood) between Juan Mendoza Street and Avenue B. Beginning in 1850, the first waves of Chinese immigrants arrived to work on the Panama Railroad. Some brought their families and many settled in this area. You might want to sample some authentic Chinese food in one of the small eating establishments or peruse the local supermarket’s shelves. Stalls of military supplies, cooking utensils, camping gear and the odd saddle, some new and some used, are sold in the row of stalls near the market on Calle E, close to the waterfront.

You’ll find plenty of dining and nightlife in the renovated areas bordering Plaza de la Independencia, the French Plaza, and scattered along nearby streets. When visiting after dark, take a taxi or park close by in a well-lighted area. And if a scruffy character approaches with an offer to watch your vehicle, by all means take him up on it and pay him a dollar or two when you leave. It’s the custom here and he will guard it well. Keep in mind that most of the narrow, cobbled streets support only one-way traffic.