Garganta del Chorro
Garganta del Chorro is a climber's paradise. "Smashing Pumpkins,” “Swimming Through a Shark Attack,” “Dom Perineum” – these are just a few of many routes bolted into the varied rock faces of the Parque Natural de Los Gaitanes. Climbers know the area well as the Garganta del Chorro, an immense chasm of limestone cut by the Guadalhorce River to depths reaching 180 meters (590 feet). With single and multi-pitch routes ranging in grade from F4-F8a, it is the most favorable area in Andalucía for climbing and one of Spain’s most versatile. Along the river an old railway has rendered the rock walls passable via a series of tunnels. Clinging precariously to the canyon face above is the Camino del Rey (King’s Path), a catwalk first installed to allow the king to oversee construction of a hydraulic damn that has since filled the area with a series of lakes. The catwalk is now officially off-limits. The entire first section has been removed and other sections have fallen 100-200 feet to the bottom of the gorge. Not a recommended hike, but still one that is attempted by the daring or the near-insane. Climbers are a little of both. If you do attempt this “hike,” consider bringing along a harness and a couple of slings.
The climbing routes of the gorge are generally well bolted (though in places traditional protection is a must) and are divided into three areas: lower, central and upper. The upper routes have lately been de-bolted and restricted. The lower routes are most frequented and, as a result, show some polished rock in places. The middle area is known for Los Cotos, what some say is Europe’s single largest climbing slab, and Makinodromo, the big-boy best left to the experts with grades up to F8.
Within an hour’s walk of the main climbing zone there are a number of other popular areas. Among them, the route of the Escalera Arabe (Arabic Stair) mounts one of the highest crags and affords views of the Mediterranean Sea.
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