The Capital City of Palma
As the largest city of the Balearic archipelago, the seat of its autonomous government, site of its biggest and busiest port, center of its commerce and its most visited destination, this is the big city, relatively speaking. Though not as fast-tracked as most mainland Spanish cities, it is easy to forget while here that outside the city there are beaches and beautiful, sunny open spaces. That its own beach is not even within comfortable walking distance from the city center seems to underscore its role as the serious, responsible elder of the Balearics.
A Brief History of Palma
Palma is one of the oldest communities in the islands, founded by the Roman Quintus Cecillius Metellus in 123 BC. It came under Moorish dominion beginning in 903 AD after they had run out the Byzantines in 903, who had run out the Vandals in 534, who had previously run out the Romans around 455. Under King Jaume I, the Christians recaptured Palma from the Moors in 1229, renamed it the Ciutat de Mallorca and made it the seat of the Kingdom of Mallorca. This period of commercial prosperity through its sea trade with Barcelona, Valencia, North Africa and Europe lasted well beyond the year 1343, when Pedro IV of Aragon invaded the island, effectively annexing it to the Kingdom of Aragon. With that kingdom’s later unification with Castile in the crusade against the Moors, the city and island became part of the emerging Spanish country.
Palma Orientation
Unless you’ve rented a car and picked it up at the airport, arrivals to Palma typically begin in the bustling but less than interesting Placa Espanya next to the bus and train stations, which is often considered the heart of contemporary Palma.
The most rewarding path to the city’s historical core and port is via the Porta Pintada, which connects to the store-lined pedestrian street Sant Miquel, at which you should make a left and follow to its culmination at the vast, rectangular Placa Major, hemmed by arcades and often crowded with vendors hawking a myriad of cheap local and exotic crafts. From the smaller Placa Marques Palmer just beyond and to the south of this main plaza, Carrer Platería courses through the evocative Barrio Hebreo Call, the old Jewish quarter. From this same plaza there are any number of ways to reach the central artery, Passeig des Born, which spans from the Placa Rei Joan Carles I to the Placa Reina nearer to the water and the Catedral. For less carbon monoxide inhalation and noise pollution, walk down Carrer Jaume II to reach the Placa Rosari and the beginning of elegant Carrer Conquistador. It runs as far as the Placa Reina, the heart of Palma’s old quarter.
The streets called Apuntadors and Pintor G. Mesquida dive into the narrow, evocative confines of Palma’s original barrio, a favorite haunt of tourists clamoring for its cheap accommodations, bars and mid-range restaurants. From the Placa Reina, the Avinguda d’Antoni Maura runs by this zone to the Passeig Maritim, a two-lane road paralleled by a pedestrian trail which traces the shoreline around Palma’s notorious port and marinas.
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