Caliente

About 21 miles northeast of Las Vegas, US 93 heads north from I-15 and runs up the entire eastern side of the state. It’s the regular route to Great Basin National Park, 254 miles from The Strip. Along the way, however, the highway passes near 5,000-acre Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. More than 200 species of birds and small mammals are found on the wetlands that take their name from the Paiute words for “place of many waters.”

In Caliente, 58 miles north and east of the refuge via US 93, make a quick stop at the Railroad Depot, which has been in continuous use since 1923. The Mission-style, white-washed structure, currently serviced by Amtrak, houses one of the most exquisite murals in the state, depicting the history of southern Nevada from 1864 to 1914. The Depot also houses the city offices and the Chamber of Commerce, 702- 726-3129. Grab a walking-tour map for the town and peruse some of the local historic sites.

Also nab a map of Rainbow Canyon and head south from town on NV 317 to this head-spinning geologic wonderland of volcanic walls tinted impossible colors by naturally occurring minerals in the water. The nearby Etna Caves hide Native American petroglyphs.

State Parks Near Caliente

Within an hour’s drive of Caliente are five Nevada state parks – including one of the least visited. All of them offer overnight camping.

The best known of the bunch is probably Cathedral Gorge, located in a long, narrow valley where erosion has carved unique patterns and caves in the soft bentonite clay of the canyon walls. Head for Miller Point for impressive views and photo ops of the gorgeous gorge (see On Foot, below). The park is located just west of US 93 about 12 miles north of Caliente. Nevada Division of State Parks holds Saturday night nature programs in the campground amphitheater, along with many other events. There are 16 campsites which run $7 per night in high season and $3 November through March.

Kershaw-Ryan State Park, three miles south of Caliente and just east of NV 317, centers on a colorful canyon at the northern end of Rainbow Canyon. The steep hills once towered over settlers growing grapevines and trees around a spring-fed pond.

Beaver Dam State Park is the state’s most primitive and rustic park and one of the most lightly trod. The 2,200 acres come complete with deep canyons, pinyon and juniper forests, a flowing stream and a small reservoir (14 acres) called Schroeder Lake. Boats are not recommended, but anglers are welcome to cast about for rainbow trout. The park, set at 5,000 feet just a few miles from the Utah border, is open year-round, but travel is not advised during winter months. From Caliente, go six miles north on US 93 to a turnoff on the right that leads 28 miles on gravel roads to the park. There are 42 campsites, which charge $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March.

Echo Canyon State Park’s claim to fame is a 65-acre reservoir with a campground and boat ramp on the shoreline. The dry brown hills around the lake harbor varied wildlife, native plants and unique rock formations. Because the park is set on 930 acres at 5,200 feet, winter visitors might encounter snow and grueling driving conditions. From Caliente, head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right on NV 322. Go four miles and take the left fork toward Ursine. Roll up Eagle Valley 16 miles to the park. There are 34 campsites charging $6 per night during high season and $3 November through March.

Popular Spring Valley State Park is a 1,200-acre gem surrounding 65-acre Eagle Valley Reservoir. A boat ramp is available and there are tours of the historic Ranch House. Winter travelers might also find snow here. From Caliente, head north on US 93 25 miles to Pioche and turn right onNV322. Go four miles and take the right fork eight miles to the park. There are 37 campsites, which run $7 during high season and $3 November through March.

Pioche

Just 25 miles north of Caliente, the tiny outpost of Pioche has been the center of a boom-and-bust mining economy since 1869. Packed with historic points of interest, the town (pronounced “pee-OACH”) is certainly worth a visit on a lazy, hazy afternoon. Check in atCommerce Cottage at Main and Cedar streets, 702-962-5215, for a walking/driving tour map. A must-see is the so-called Million Dollar Courthouse, which was built between 1871 and 1878 of bricks that were shipped around Cape Horn and native rock from a local hill. The original building costs totaled $16,000, but the unreliable tax base of a mining town and the pockets of corrupt officials helped stretch the payments out for 60 years. All told, they ran up to $1 million.