Zona Sul

You’ll spend virtually all your days and nights in the South Zone because that is where Copacabana, Ipanema and all of Rio’s famed beach communities are located. Here too are the city’s finest hotels, restaurants, shopping venues and night life. It’s where the action is.

South Zone Communities - Before the Tunnels

Glória, Flamengo & Botafogo

These residential areas lie between Centro and the tunnels to Leme and Copacabana (although they are officially in South Zone). Until those tunnels were built, these were the most upscale residential areas of Rio. Many of the 19th-century buildings have been renovated and young married couples and singles who work downtown have moved in to take advantage of lower rents. The Metrô makes stops here. All three areas face Guanabara Bay and have great views of Sugar Loaf. However, the residential areas are not directly on the water.

Glória’s residential area is on the hilly ground overlooking Flamengo Park. You can’t miss Glória Church, which has a prominent location and is illuminated at night. It was a favorite of Dom Pedro II, who was married there and had his daughter Isabel baptized in it. Daily mass is held at the church. Glória’s waterfront is very active and features plenty of marinas with ferries heading out on bay tours and trips to nearby islands.

Flamengo, adjacent to Glória, is best known for its park that follows the bay from downtown to Botafogo. The park is home to the Museum of Art, the Carmen Miranda Museum, the WW II Memorial and Museum and lots of sports venues. The grounds are lovely.

Botafogo, on the curve of Guanabara Bay nearest Sugar Loaf, has a commercial center, including Rio Sul Shopping Center, the oldest mall in Rio. It is home to the tony Rio Yacht Club and other marinas. There are good restaurants in the area.

Urca

Sugar Loaf is the well-known thimble- shaped mountain that guards the entrance to Guanabara Bay and can be reached by cable car. It’s found in the small neighborhood of Urca.

Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa, a hilly area inland from Glória, is one of the most interesting parts of Rio. Art-deco houses, art galleries, handicraft stores and small eateries make it fun to stroll through. The Chácara do Céu Museum and Ruins Park are also here, and people who come get great views of the city. Take the bonde (tram) from Lapa to Santa Teresa. It’s a great ride.

Cosme Velho

Even higher hills can be found in this neighborhood, set inland from Flamengo. It houses the terminal for the funicular railroad up Corcovado Mountain to the Christ the Redeemer Statue at its peak. The Primitive Art Museum and a charming colonial square are nearby.

South Zone Beach Communities

Leme & Copacabana

The resort heart of Rio, Copacabana is both a world-famous beach and a vibrant residential and commercial community. Leme and Copacabana’s beach runs for over four miles. Scores of hotels, top-rated restaurants and lots of night spots are in Copacabana. Key streets are as follows:

Av. Atlântica is the street that edges the sand. A four-lane thoroughfare, it has the black-and-white mosaic tile sidewalks designed by Robert Burle Marx, a well-known landscape artist. The near side of the street is studded with kiosks that sell fruit juices and other refreshments. There are marked bicycle and jogging paths. The far side has apartment buildings, hotels and cafés and is alive well into the night.

Av. N.S. de Copacabana, one block from the beach, is the community’s most important shopping street. It also houses moderately priced hotels and restaurants. Rua Barata Ribeiro is a primarily residential street two blocks from the beach. It has a few night spots.

Copacabana Fort, sits on a promenade extending into the Atlantic. It marks the western end of Copacabana, houses a small museum and Colombo Café. The views are stunning.

Ipanema

The beach that was made famous by Tom Jobim’s song fronts Rio’s most upscale residential area and its best shopping area. There are not many hotels, but the city’s best restaurants are here, along with many bars and clubs.

The following key streets will help you get your bearings in Ipanema.

Av. Vieira Souto, the beachfront promenade, is far less crowded than Copacabana. It has an active beach with sports fields, but draws a younger crowd. The far side has residencial buildings primarily and only a handful of hotels and cafés.

Rua Visconde de Pirajá is the third block from the beach. It is lined with upscale shops and small shopping arcades. It’s a great street to browse.

Praça General Osório is the site of the Sunday Hippie Fair, a handicrafts and folklore market.

Rua Garcia d’Ávila is a key cross street. H. Stern’s head office and museum are here, as are designer shops.

Rua Paul Redfern is the final block of Ipanema before you come into Leblon. It runs only from the beach to Rua Visconde de Pirajá, but both sides of the streets have restaurants, bars, night clubs and gay clubs.

Rua Farme de Amoedo is another active cross-street. It has several gay-friendly clubs and bars. The beach in front of this street is a gay hang-out.

Leblon

Separated from Ipanema by a canal (Jardim de Alah), Leblon is a smaller version of that resort town. An upper-class enclave, it has the city’s best restaurants, as well as good shops. It is quieter than neighborhoods. The beach here draws families and well-toned singles.

Familiarize yourself with Leblon's key streets:

Av. Delfim Moreira is the beachfront street of Leblon. It has lovely homes but few hotels or restaurants.

Rua Gal. San Martin and Av. Ataulfo de Paiva, the second and third streets from the beach, are similar. They each have restaurants, busy bars and shops.

São Conrado

This quiet beach and residential area is a 15- minute drive from Copacabana through a new set of tunnels. Hang-gliders take off from a hill above this beach, landing on a section of it called Pepino. Growing quickly, São Conrado has new condos, a five-star hotel and golf courses.

Gavea Rock, a landmark boulder, delineates the boundaries of São Conrado and Barra, although both communities claim it as their own. It has a chiseled profile that allows viewers to imagine it resembles anything from a Viking to a hobbit. It rises sharply from the sea to over 2,600 feet/800 meters and can be climbed by those with stamina (the hike often takes seven hours). Views en route, and especially from the peak, are stunning. Another way to view the rock is to hang-glide over it from the Pedra Bonita platform nearby. The landing point is on Pepino Beach near the rock.