Santa Teresa
For a change of pace and a very different Rio experience, head to Santa Teresa, one of the city’s oldest and most charming neighborhoods. This hilly area, inland from Flamengo Park, offers impressive views of the bay and city from many parts of the district. Its narrow streets are lined with small one-family houses, many with well-tended gardens. Some have been renovated and you’ll see artist’s studios and workshops. On Sundays, artists display and sell their works on the street. Handicraft stores and charming cafés can be found on Rua Almirante Alexandrino next to the local produce market. There are no “must see” spots here, so just stroll around absorbing the local color.
When you tire of strolling, head to Rua Murtinho Nobre. At #163, you’ll find the Parque de Ruinas (Park of Ruins, although the ruins are long gone). The park envelopes the stunning residence of Laurinda Santos Lobo, who was in charge of many of Rio’s cultural activities early in the 20th century. The building has aspects of Neoclassical, Greek and Gothic architecture and is a cultural center and exhibition hall. There is a coffee shop and a viewing tower atop the building. Sip a strong black coffee as you look out over the city to Niterói and Tijuca Forest. The park that surrounds the center has an open-air stage where concerts are held. Check with your concierge to see what exhibits or shows are on when you are in Rio.
Follow the pathway from the park to Museu Chácara de Céu (Heavenly Farm Museum) at #93, formerly the residence of a wealthy Carioca businessman and avid art collector. There are works by Picasso, Dali, Miro and Matisse, as well as scores of watercolors and drawings. Look for the collection of antique maps from the 17th and 18th centuries. The mansion was built in the 1950s and the furnishings remain from that era. The gardens were designed by Roberto Burle Marx.
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