Altstadt

Römerberg

Frankfurt’s main sights are close to Römerberg, the physical and spiritual heart of Frankfurt since the days of Charlemagne. This huge square is the setting for all modern day festivals. The fountain (1611) has Justice, not blindfolded, but rather facing the Town Hall, as a warning to the town council to treat the citizens fairly.

Nowadays, Römer refers to the whole Rathaus, which consists of 16 buildings that were connected through the centuries to form the town hall. However, the name originally referred only to the middle house, which was used by traders from Rome, rather than the Romans of empire-building fame, when visiting the annual trade fairs. The exterior is Neo-Gothic and the statues only added decades after the last emperor was crowned here. Römer was extensively damaged during World War II, but rebuilt in simplified form. The Kaisersaal is the only part of the building open to tourists. It has paintings of all emperors from Charlemagne to Joseph II. These portraits were painted in the late 19th century. Note the portrait of Matthias – his coronation in 1612 is fondly remembered. Contrary to popular belief, his coronation was the only one where the fountain in the square spouted wine.

The lovely half-timbered houses facing the Rathaus were constructed only in the 1980s as true copies of the originals destroyed duringWorldWar II. Most of the old town still looked like that in 1940. The only half-timbered building in the old town that survived the inferno following the air raids is Haus Wertheym across from the History Museum.

At the south end of the square, dividing it from the River Main, is the 12th-century Alte Nikolaikirche (Old St Nicholas Church), Am Römerberg. It has a surprisingly small interior given the high roof. During the Christmas Market, an orchestra often plays from the balcony.

Next to the church is the Historisches Museum (Local History Museum), Saalgasse 19. It has interesting displays, but unfortunately few English descriptions. Of particular interest is the model of the old town as well as a small part of Charlemagne’s original Pfalz. It also has a huge coin collection.

The ultra-modern Schirn Kunsthalle, Römerberg, occupies the full length from the Kaiserdom to Römerberg. Such a modern design in the heart of the old town is very much in keeping with Frankfurt’s approach to life and, for once, the building was not cheaply done. It looks the part, in contrast to the rather drab Technical Rathaus directly opposite it. Opened in 1986 as the largest art exhibition space in Frankfurt, it houses rotating exhibitions of internationally recognized modern art. It commonly has two exhibitions running simultaneously for which admission has to be paid separately.

Kaiserdom

The Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral), is a bit of a misnomer as it was never the seat of the bishop, but had the honorary title added after it became the church in which the German King was crowned. Its proper name is the Dom St Batholomäus (Cathedral of St Bartholomew). The Gothic church was built between 1315 and 1514, but the tower was left unfinished. A major fire in 1867 destroyed parts of the cathedral, but it was rebuilt using the original plans and this time the tower was actually completed. The bombing raids of World War II left only the shell of the church but it was soon rebuilt. Major renovations are currently underway and parts of the church may be closed through 2005.

The reddish interior of the church houses several works of art. Also note the paint-on bricks where concrete was used instead of sandstone. From 1356, the election of the German emperor took place in the library south of the choir. The coronations were held here from 1562 to 1792.

The Dommuseum (Cathedral Museum), Domplatz 1, 069-1337-6186, is attached to the church and houses the cathedral treasures, mainly gowns and some chalices and minor reliquaries. It is of minor interest and can be seen in a few minutes.

The Museum für Moderne Kunst (Modern Art), Domstraße 10, is in a building that opened in 1991. The collection is primarily European and American art from the 1960s. Works are rotated every six months.

North of the Römer

Just north of the Römer, is the round Paulskirche, Paulsplatz. This Classical building is a post-war copy of the original erected in 1790-1833. The first elected German parliament met here in 1848-49. The current interior is modern with a small exhibition on German parliamentary history. A plenary hall on the second floor is used for conferences and other mostly non-religious events.

The Liebfrauenkirche, (Church of Our Dear Lady), was a former monastery church. It was destroyed in 1944, but rebuilt using the original Gothic style. It has an interesting Three-Kings Tympanum, Gothic panels, and Baroque figures saved from the ruins of the former church. At the back is a Lourdes grotto and Gothic chapel entrance.

The St Leonhardkirche (St Leonard’s Church) is a Late Romanesque construction with a Gothic chancel added around 1430. Note the Romanesque spires and the Gothic frescoes and altars. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to noon and from 3 to 6 pm.

The Karmeliterkloster (Carmelite Monastery), Münzgasse 9, has the largest religious mural created north of the Alps. This 140-m (460-foot) painting was done in the 15th century by Jörg Ratgeb. On the second floor are changing exhibitions, mainly photographs of early events or themes related to Frankfurt.