Bacharach
Bacharach, situated on the left bank of the Rhine, played a key role in the Rhine wine trade but somehow managed to remain a small town. During the Thirty Years’ War, Bacharach changed hands at least eight times. And while it weathered most of the occupations and plundering, in 1689 the French all but destroyed the entire town. Then came the main road and railway which cut off the town from the Rhine to large extent, leaving visitors with access to the town via narrow tunnels that connect it with the parking areas at several points on the main road. It is therefore suggested that you not drive into the town if on a short visit. It is of course possible to walk on the city fortifications adjacent to the railway line, even though the view is not among the most memorable.
Bacharach does have its share of places to interest the visitor. Notable among these is St Peter’s Church, a beautiful example of Late Rhine Romanesque, with a nave that is 11 m (33 feet) long and 17 m (56 feet) tall. Also, directly behind the church and some 100 steps above it are the skeletal remains of the Gothic Wernerkapelle. The history of this chapel dates back to 1287 when a young man named Werner was found murdered on this spot. His death was blamed on a ritual killing by the local Jews and a pogrom followed. The chapel was built to house Werner’s bones and quickly became a place of pilgrimage. But a century later it came to light that the evidence was faked and Werner was unceremoniously scrapped from the church calendar.
Another place of interest in Bacharach, high on the hill above the church and chapel, is Burg Stahleck. When the French blew up the castle in 1689, falling rock caused significant damage to the Wernerkapelle, which was never restored. The castle, however, was rebuilt in the 1920s and now houses what must be one of the loveliest youth hostels in Germany. You can climb the steep stairs from the Wernerkapelle to the castle for a spectacular view. It is also possible to drive up to the castle by proceeding through town toward Rheinböllen and then following the signs to Stahleck.
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