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The Albaicín and The Sacromonte
The Albaicín
The Albaicín, the old Arabic quarters, cover a hill opposite the Alhambra. Inside its whitewashed walls is a veritable time warp, an ancient city mostly free of cars and often avoided by tourists because of its steep and narrow cobblestone streets. Do not follow their example. The Albaicín offers an enchanting glimpse of Arabic Granada, with its hidden squares, numerous terraces overlooking the Alhambra and city, not to mention the great dining and entertainment opportunities. Though the Arabic population was ethnically cleansed over 500 years ago, their influence pervades this labyrinth even now. Entering the Albaicín, you will pass many of Granada’s famed teterrias (tea houses), as Gypsies play guitars next to loitering Moroccans and shops selling typical Granadino pottery (identifiable by the white background and strong blue shapes). Higher up the Albaicín is a visual artist’s heaven, with stunning views in almost every direction.
The Zirid monarchs first established their court here in the 11th century. Little remains of that era except for parts of the wall that once circled this city, as well as the gates of El Arco de las Pesas, Elvira and Monaita. The Church of San Salvador is on the site of the Great Mosque of La Alcazaba across from the church of San Juan de los Reyes and its original minaret dating back to 13th century Nasrid dynasty. Nearby is the Church of San Nicolas. Once comfortably perched along its Mirador de San Nicolas, you will appreciate the oft-quoted Granadino line: “Give him alms woman because there is nothing as bad as being blind in Granada.”
The Sacromonte
Climb past the Albaicín and find yourself high up in the Sacromonte, a mystical home of gypsies who have lived in caves here for over 600 years. Spanish flamenco and the Sacromonte go hand in hand and you will more than likely be coerced into seeing one of its numerous flamenco shows inside a Tablao, a flamenco gypsy cave adorned with hand-made copper and ceramic articles typical of Granada. Avoid the shows with stages, as these are usually less authentic. In the Rocio or the Gallo, dancers will sway all around you and you may find yourself lost in the music, if not eventually lost in the Sacromonte streets.
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